![]() Several settings exist to let you choose the margin of error that suits your activity, from 5 minutes to 30 seconds to manual. ![]() There are a couple of gotchas though the iPhone app samples your location periodically rather than continuously in an effort to conserve power, and that may lead to some slight inaccuracies where the location is concerned. Your camera clock doesn’t need to be synchronised to anything, everything just works. From this file it assigns locations to all your photos, outputting them to a new folder, and weeding out the QR code pictures, the GPX file, and any images not taken as part of the trip. The PC / Mac version of GPS4Cam looks through the photos in the nominated folder until it finds a QR code, from which a GPX compatible track log is extracted. Download pictures to a folder on your computer.Take a picture of the screen with the camera(s) you used on the trip.At the end, hit the app’s stop button.Start the app at the beginning of your trip.But how to tag images not taken with the iPhone? Enter GPS4Cam, an iPhone app that’s nothing short of genius. Pictures were tagged by default and overlaid onto a Google maps interface, allowing you to scroll and zoom to each photo’s location. When I got my first iPhone I was impressed with the camera, especially with the ability to view my photo collection on a map. (I soon got into the habit of taking a photo of my GPS unit’s time & date screen so I could work out this offset manually should the need arise) If you have a PC and a GPS unit that can save track logs you’ll want to try this A New Dawn Various software programs exist to help you tag your photos, and some of the better ones even let you build in a time offset between camera and GPS so that, when you invariably forget to synchronise before a trip, you can still get an accurate fix for each picture afterwards. Sounds pretty simple, but the process relied upon your camera clock being synchronised exactly to that of the GPS, which often wasn’t the case because you’ve got better things to think about when heading off on a trip. The log file from a trip would be loaded into the software, as would the pictures, and the program would work out the latitude and longitude coordinates for each picture based on the time it was taken. You needed a GPS which could store and output a track log file, a camera, and some software. This was a leap forward for travel photography, but back then the process was quite lengthy and prone to error. ![]() A long time ago I discovered I could also save the exact location a photo was taken, permanently, in the file itself. When I’m back, I’ll usually download the track log from the GPS, adding it to the map as dotted line, a permanent record of I was here. Road trips are typically played out in advance, picking out scenic or interesting routes in favour over simply going from A to B. I love maps almost as much as I love travelling. It will either be ahead or behind that, and in order to synch you have to correct the camera time in all the photos.A bunch of geotagged photos taken around Oxford You can do it now by taking a picture of the clock on a phone showing minutes and seconds, and then compare that to the time shown in the photo's metadata. In order for GPS synch to be accurate, it has to know exactly when the image was taken, and most cameras without GPS need to be corrected. It's the difference between what your camera clock is set to in minutes AND seconds vs the real time. ![]() So it's 6 hours plus or minus some minutes and seconds. Then use other software to sych.Īnd the clock error isn't the time zone difference. Select a trip, then hit the share button (square with up arrow) and mail a GPX track to yourself. Go into gps4cam and find "Trips" at the bottom. I only know how to create the QR code in the app on my smartphone.Īs far as the time records I did not change my camera clock but my smartphone changed automatically.
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